New Zealand Cruise in the Bay of Islands

NEW ZEALAND CRUISE IN THE BAY OF ISLANDS

Unusually this year the Cumberland Pennant has been flown by a 145-foot square-rigger on the other side of the World.  This was in March, toward the end of the New Zealand summer.  21 members of the club cruised in various yachts, some on board the Soren Larsen, a barquentine now converted for passengers.  This Royal Thames rally was joined by members of other major yacht clubs from around the world,  making it also an ICOYC event.  The ICOYC parties were got together by their President, John Stork.  The event was master-minded by the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron and it was in their clubhouse in Auckland that we all gathered for a dinner before setting out north, in a bus, to the Bay of Islands.

This cruising ground has to be one of the World’s most agreeable stretches of water.  It provides gentle sailing with a multitude of anchorages, with shelter from winds out of any quarter.  The cruise also gave an insight into the history of New Zealand and the way colonisation had been achieved in the early eighteen hundreds.  It was interesting to note that James Cook returned from visiting this land for the second time in 1775, the year that the Duke of Cumberland founded the Cumberland Fleet.  It can be speculated that the two would have met, when at this time Captain Cook was being feted in London for his discoveries.  Our final anchorage off Robertson Island was one he had occupied on his first voyage. Unlike the Endeavour, we avoided hitting Whale Rock, pointed out to us as being just below the surface. 

We joined our various craft at Opua and moved on a short distance to Russell, the early-day trading post, the leading port of New Zealand before the better harbour at Auckland was discovered.  Russell was once known as the “hell-hole of the Pacific”. However the welcome received was both traditional and friendly, a Maori one put on by school-children. This was followed by a Hungi, a meal cooked in a large hole in the ground.  The next day took the fleet to Indecott Bay, Urupukapuka Island.  Then on round Cape Brett, stopping to see the famous “hole in the rock”, to that night’s anchorage outside the Bay of Islands itself at Whangamumu Harbour.  Our return passage took us to Parakura Bay where we were invited to the holiday home of Philip Yates, an RNZYS member. He told us the gory details of how what is now his land had once been a battleground between warring Maori factions.  Now, thanks to him, it is covered by a multitude of species of the trees and shrubs found in New Zealand. We were also amused to learn that his house had been designed in the 30’s by a German architect. He had not realised the sun would shine on the north side of the house. As a result, the whole building faces 180 degrees in the wrong direction!

Next we sailed to Waitangi to visit the famous Treaty Grounds.  Here a descendant of the original chief to sign the treaty gave us a splendid oration on how the colonisation of New Zealand came about.  After lunch, the fleet sailed north to Te Pahi Bay where the next day some went ashore to Marsden’s Cross, a place revered as being where  the first sermon was preached on Christmas Day 1814. Some met up on the beach nearby with a tame Kiwi bird, apparently not something that happens ever day. 

Then a most unusual race was organised for our passage to Te Hue Bay.  A prize was offered to the boat that finished half way down the fleet with the objective of everyone attempting to sail at much the same speed.  The finishing line was said to be to the south of the Soren Larson as committee boat. The fact that most contestants finished on the sunny north side could have been excused for those from the northern hemisphere, but for the fact they all followed a boat helmed by an Australian.  The winner was therefore judged to be the boat in second place, out of the three that finished correctly.  The only boat with young children aboard became the winner, much to popular acclaim.  We were hosted that evening by another charming RNZYS member, Sir Ron Carter, firstly in his garden. Then, as the rain came down, all packed into his holiday home.  Next day some visited an Oyster farm before sailing on to Robertson Island, the home of Jim Cottier, the skipper of Soren Larsen where a jolly end-of-term party ensued. 

Without the enthusiasm of David Charlesworth, a past Commodore of the RNZYS, and his organisation both before and during the rally this unique event would not have been possible. The squadron’s General Manager, Craig Peploe’s involvement was also crucial in the planning.  It gave the Thames members a memorable week, it showed that the participation of members of other clubs could produce an interesting mix of people from all over the World, rallying together and creating bonds between the participating clubs.

Richard Prest, event organiser.