Palma Rally — 11 September '10

11 September –18 September

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ROYAL THAMES YACHT CLUB

MALLORCA RALLY

11 to 18 September 2010

 

MALLORCA CRUISE  REPORT

September 2010

                                                                                                           

With only 3 participating boats, Andrew Collins' chartered X-40, Flamenco, joining two ‘local' boats, Bob and June Beeston's beautiful Oyster 62, Star of Acabar, and Tim and Liz Mitchell's Helios, we decided this was more a cruise in company rather than a rally - but absolutely no less enjoyable for that. 

 

Under clear blue skies and with the temperature in the high twenties our crew, mostly current or previous Rear Commodores Sailing, arrived in time for lunch at the palatial Real  Club Nautico de Palma, before leading a raid on the markets to provision Flamenco, leaving the wise and lovely Kristina guarding the pool for our return. Negotiating the 6" v 1" piece of firewood sparingly standing in for a boarding gangway, was a sobering and educating experience later, when boarding Flamenco laden with bags of fruit.  Happy memories, for some, of Jamie Houston seeking to recover from the murky depths of the harbour the sunglasses he lost in just such a transit to an Oyster and on this very spot not so long ago. 

 

Sundowner drinks at RCNP enabled crews of all boats to meet and review the arduous challenges of the week ahead, principally those of ensuring daily cocktails and dinners could be located. For many it was also a first meeting with the delightful Candy, soon to become Mrs Jonathan Beeston. An excellent dinner in stylish Palma compered by a proprietor frustrated at not having had an operatic career, ensured we were aware of early Italian occupation and influence on Mallorca. 

 

Post dinner, the Beestons insisted we should experience the astonishing and flamboyant Abaco cocktail bar (or was it a top market fruiterer,) the enormous former town house (in Arabic style) of a wealthy 14th Century merchant. Here we imbibed astonishing and flamboyant cocktails.  Eventually relocating the RCNP we found we were locked out, Flamenco's mooring being within the Club's security zone. What kind of yacht club closes its doors before 2am?  In the nick of time before the Captain of Cruising committed suicide by impalation on the 3 metre high spear-tipped security fence, a late-working staff member admitted us through their exclusive entrance.

 

The next day we enjoyed local sailing to delightful Andratx where we were discovered by and, over dinner, enjoyed the company of, none other than PJ's brother, David, who seems to have adopted Andratx as his second home - and who could blame him for that? Overnight berthing was at the superb Club de Vela. Another delightful day's sail in perfect weather took us around the island of Dragonera with an extensive swim/lunch stop where we were successful in avoiding the R/CS from being consumed by piranhas. 

 

The scheduled berth for the night was in the marina at Puerto Portals, but the berthing fee of over 400 Euros was instrumental in a decision to remain in Andratx and taxi over to the dinner. This was at Wellies, a restaurant apparently close to the heart of young Beastie. The man clearly has good taste! 

 

Next day, having sadly had to say farewell to Kristina who was returning to Sweden (or was it Switzerland?), we made an early start on the day-long passage to the nature reserve islands of Cabrera ("goat island") and unique home of the last 12 pairs in the world of Eleonora's Falcons, perhaps the supreme rulers of the archipelago.  After some motoring the sea breeze filled in and we enjoyed a sparkling sail. Star of Acabar had powered on ahead, but with perfect timing Helios appeared on an opposite tack to Flamenco, so ever so casually the genoa was winched in a fraction, sail trim was perfected (even more....) and in moments we has a race on. Why is it that cruising folk find themselves so easily distracted from their normal civilised mode of sailing?   Hard though it is to admit, Flamenco was not first into the bay, thanks to a dubious tactical tacking decision (he said ‘sporting') by one of the ex-Rear Commodores Sailing.  Well done Helios!"

 

Cabrera boasts a lovely sheltered bay, with twenty or so laid moorings, all dominated by a ruined 14th century stone fort. The fort became an obligatory target for a walk (for some anyway, others preferring instead the apparently liberating experience of dressing down severely for a swim) before the inevitable cocktails.  Truce between combatants was nevertheless achieved over drinks at the beach bar run it seemed by the only residents of this remote group of islands.  Back on board we were treated to an excellent meal by our resident chef, who doubled as skipper.

 

Next day saw a twenty mile sail up the East coast to the port of Portocolom, where we landed two crew who apparently had to return to work. Sad people.  The depleted crew moved on to the fascinating harbour of Porto Cristo, tucked away behind cliffs. Easy berthing against the harbour wall with plenty of visitor's spaces and a short walk to yet another superb restaurant, overlooking the marina and harbour.

 

This coastline is noted for its calas, small coves cut into the low cliffs. For our lunch stop next day we anchored in one with two small sandy beaches and a large open cave. Whilst we swam in the cool, clear water, a succession of lithe rock-climbers tackled the cliff face behind us, free-climbing like spiders across the cave roof. Regular shouts followed by large splashes indicated that not all maintained their grip perfectly!

 

Anchored at Portocolum on the penultimate night, we all again enjoyed Star of Acabar's hospitality and then survived an excellent dinner of countless courses and reflected on a thoroughly enjoyable event, blessed with fine company and glorious weather.  Our sincere thanks go to all those who made it possible, commiserations to those who did not make it there.

 

KG Jones